More ripio, but coming strongly recommended

Two weeks and lots of blog to catch up on. We've largely been away from towns, just surrounded by stunning beautiful scenery. It's been an amazing, lots of biking days but not so many miles each day. We've taken our time and enjoyed the beautiful scenery through the Chilean and Argentinian Lake districts. I'd certainly come back to this region again. Maybe with my walking boots next time and possibly a couple of weeks later when I think the autumn display of colours will be spectacular.

2nd April, Pucon to Conaf campsite Chicay (25M)

Gareth feeling much better, we packed away our kit and loaded up our bikes again. We said our goodbyes to the Swiss couple Julie and Alex and on their strong recommendations headed eastwards and then southwards to circle the other side around Volcan Villarrica  via a dirt track and many thermal springs. We were warned that we would have probably 4km of pushing the bikes as the track becomes very rough in places, but they would both take the road again. it came with many recommendations, so we put aside our preference for the tarmac and reflected on that indeed all our favourite days of cycling had actually been on the ripio and headed out of  Pucon in that direction via  a panaderia (Gareth was feeling much better as we loaded our panniers with tasty bread and cakes!). We had tarmaced roads initially as we headed eastwards and amazing views of Volcan Villarica spouting steam into the air. It was the most active we'd seen the volcano since arriving in Pucon. We had some regrets that we hadn't joined a tour to climb the volcano but the cost and time constraints of waiting another day put us off for now.

Happy days on good ripio

After about 20km of tarmac we turned southwards along a ripio (dirt) road. The road was much quieter and was harder work due to the rough surface and the gradual climbing we were starting to do. I didn't tell Gareth at the time but for a while I had my doubts we were actually on the right road as it only signposted a 'Termus' (hot springs), not Conaripe the village we were ultimately headed towards. Thankfully after 20km and arrival that the Termus in question the signs did then start to appear for Conaripe. At that point I admitted my doubts, thankfully it was the right road! Cycling onwards the road became rougher and we passed an area of road works. certainly no improvement at the moment, soft earth is really not that easy to cycle on!

It wasn't all easy going, although all had Gareth had to do was push his bike in a straight line!

Like that...

Early afternoon we arrived at a beautiful grassy glade by a stream. It seemed purpose- made to camp in. It was perhaps earlier than we would usually stop and we hadn't yet passed through the rough uphill section where we would need to push our bikes, which we were hoping to get over with today, but we did stop and debate about setting up the tent here for today. We were beginning to get into our chilled, 'less miles and more scenery' is better mode. However before the final decision was made and while we were scouting ahead to check out alternative sights a couple of tour cyclists came into view heading northwards towards us. It was Jean-Charles and Audrey!!! Our french cycling friends from Antarctica. It was amazing to see them and great to catch up. It was the first time we'd actually met up in cycling gear. It really is a small world out there. They'd caught the navimag ferry the week before us, we'd taken different routes since the ferry, but on one of the smallest most isolated bits of road we met up!

An hour later we went our separate ways, Gareth and I actually cycling onwards for about another 2km to a conaf campsite (Chilean national parks) that the others had spotted on their way northwards. The site was lovely, isolated in the forest, only 2 others camped there and with toilets and showers (admittedly cold ones!).