Torres del Paine Circuit

11th to 18th March, Torres del Paine National Park

DAY 1

We had an early rise to get the bus to the park and the bus arrived during breakfast, so we quickly shoved our toast in our mouths, downed our coffee and left the comfort of the hostel behind. This journey was to take 2 1/2 hours with a 10 mins toilet stop. The bus was very comfy and I dosed whilst Sarah enjoyed the scenery. On route we spied a couple of cyclists, who at first made us feel just a little guilty, but on hitting the dirt road our regrets vanished. If we had been wearing dentures they would of been rattled out, it was so rough! This roughness finished when we arrived at the park reception, where we had to part with money (they charge you for everything over here). Once we had paid we boarded a shuttle bus (more money) which took us to the beginning of the circuit.

The bus stopped and dumped us at a sign which stated that we where at the start of the Circuit. Here we met Max and Danielle who also where walking the route. As we stood admiring the sign we realised it didn't really tell us which way to go so a small amount of head scratching was done before we headed in the right direction on the first leg of our 8 day jolly.

The weather was over cast and a little wet, but we made the day brighter with conversation and when the scenery obliged we stood and enjoyed the view. At one point Danielle spotted somewhere which looked like a lookout. So we dumped our packs and went to have a look. It gave pretty nice views into a small gorge which had been cut by a river, there where so interesting rock formations on the opposite bank and for a brief moment the sun came out. The removing of the packs gave perfect opportunity for a toilet break and it was whilst I was, doing well you know what, I spied a 4 leafed clover! I emerged from the undergrowth grasping said clover looking very pleased with myself (I had to quickly explain the look so not to cause confusion). What a luck pee!! Unfortunately I'm not entirely convinced this clover is fully operational as 2 minutes down the path a strap broke on my rucksack and it rained thoughout the night, but maybe they need breaking in?

DAY 2

Max and Danielle left before us this morning as we where dragging our feet. Last night when we'd pitched our tent we found that we had packed a small supermarket and really we should have made a sign and put it on the tent, we'd packed enough to feed a small family! The worst thing about it though is that unlike the bike, which it you overload, it's the bike which takes the stain. It was on our backs and it was us taking the stain. However, we decided that the 2kg of porridge, 4 Salamis, 6 packs of crackers, 4 rice meals, 3 bags of pasta, 4 pasta ready meals and lots of other stuff were enough for 2 people for 8 days. We were to eat like kings!

After we had managed to cram all our supplies into our packs and then manage to get them on our backs we started to walk. Again the weather wasn't as good as we would of liked, but as we walked the cloud did lift. We enjoyed the slowly exposing mountains on the other side of the valley as we walked. The path was easy going and we soon found a comfortable walking pace and the day seemed to sail pass. As we got closer to Camp Dixon our intended place to stay, the weather started to look a little more unsettled. We climbed a small moray and there before us was our camp ground and it was a welcome sight. Sarah suggested we have a bit to eat on the ridge we were walking on, which was really nice and as we sat there we watched Max and Danielle walk into camp.

When we had finished our break we wandered in and received a very warm welcome from one of the campsite staff, who informed us that we could pitch our tent and then pay after and there were "HOT SHOWERS!" We pitched close to Max and Danielle and later cooked with them. We also enjoyed a hot shower and the feeling of being clean.

DAY 3

Today was a short walk of only 2 1/2 hours. We left with Max and Danielle and enjoyed the company and also the weather as it had improved. We enjoyed the improvement in the scenery too, the highlight of the walk was one of the many glaciers and just for us the sun beamed down on the upper parts. As we ascended a hill the full extent of the glacier unfolded and eventually we could see it in its entirety, it ended in a ice burg filled lake at its base. This wasn't the last glacier we where going to see today or on this walk.

We carried on chatting and having a good laugh and the short walk was soon getting close to its end and just before we got to it we came to another glacier. It was beautiful and seemed to just be hanging there creaking and groaning. there was a large lake at its base and we sat for awhile enjoying this spectacular view. When we did finally get bored we marched into the campsite and pitched our tent. Sarah went and had a cold shower, much to my dismay and much to the rangers surprise. After she had finished (which wasn't long seeing the water was straight off the glacier)! we cooked a delicious meal in the tent and finally retired.

DAY 4

Now according to the information we had, today was to be our hardest day. So, we got up early and had breakfast and were still almost the last to leave. The path started steep and pretty much stayed that way until we left the tree line. The path was easy except at times it was more of a steam than a path. I soon figured it was better to follow Sarah's line than try and find my own. However, after meeting Max and Danielle, Sarah managed to find a rather tricky spot and ended up almost to her knees in nice sticky mud. Now seeing I had followed her, myself and the others, had to improvise and I soon found myself hugging a tree and praying that the weight of my pack wouldn't lever me off into a sticky end. I survived!

Once we had left the forest, the path was dry and the views where amazing. The mountains around us where a beautiful slate gray with snow and glaciers hanging off them. There was on particular glacier which snaked it's way down the side of one of the peaks which looked amazing. We carried on up towards the top, stopping for awhile for some lunch and to enjoy the view which where behind us. The sun was shining and the mountain air was clean, how could this day get any better?

30 mins later we got our answer. The views from the top of the pass looked across a valley to the mountains opposite, they where covered with glaciers and look very menacing. The true gem though was the huge mass of Glacier Gray which carved its way though the valley below. Nothing had prepared us for this amazing sight, we never even saw anything like this in the Antarctic. Below us was the main flow, but as you followed it back you could see where it originated, it really was amazing!

On the top we met Simon and Ange who we had chatted to briefly last night. We all spent time looking at this leviathan below us and at one point a huge rumble was heard from some massive fall of ice below us. After we came back to earth from marvelling at the glacier we started to descend. As with the up the down was quite steep and we gingerly made our way down. At a couple of points we had to negotiate a couple of gorges. One required us to climb a ladder (this is OK) the other required us to go down a ladder (not so good). If you know me well you'll know I have a fear of heights, if you know me really well you'll know this is especially true on ladders and to quote my nearest and dearest "I see the Oh shit grip was in use". Little did she know, not only had I implemented this grip but I was also humming to myself. At the bottom I was quite relieved. The rest of the walk was OK, but we did get to the point of just wanting to be there and our wish was granted. The campsite was a free one with a long drop toilet and glorious views of the glacier face.

DAY 5

After a good night sleep and a good breakfast (we're working our way though the 2 kg of porridge) we started to the next campsite. Today we left the seclusion of the circuit and joined the "W circuit" this is the main walk that most people do, partly due to the ease of access and also the presence of the refugios which gives alternative accommodation to camping and carrying a tent. The other down side to this area was the fact it had been incinerated by a well meaning guy in January. This guy (I'm not getting into country bashing) decided that it was better to burn his toilet paper after he had used it, rather than carrying it out like everyone else. So well done that man, one of Israels finest!

The first 3 hours we hardly saw too many people, but as we got close to where the ferry dropped people to start the 'W', we started to meet people coming the other way. Now I´m not one for crowds and I started to feel the blood boil as we encountered more and more people. Most where kind enough to give way on the hill as we trudged up them, but some carried on coming. Others who were walking with tiny little day packs felt the need to walk two abreast. It was getting to me!

At about the halfway point we met up with Max and Danielle. Danielle was getting as fed up as I was (Sarah is such a tolerant sole she didn't let it get to her). At one point this large group of tourists came past us and made us stop and not even a thank you was said, Danielle shouted "de narda" I'd picked up on the fact the the groups first language was English. So I shouted something more colourful. We had this most of the day and when we did finally get to the campsite I realised that I had paid little attention to the scenery and more to plans of reeking havoc on those rude people. I did take note of the shortage of places to pitch our tent, but we finally found a pitch and cooked a lovely meal with Max and Danielle joining us.

DAY 6

We woke to drizzle this morning and this was a shame as we intended to do a side trip without our packs up French valley. We did finally decide to walk up as far as we could to see if we could see the glacier that had woken me in the night, by dropping a huge chunk of ice which sounded like thunder and then rumbling as though it was coming down the valley. So, Sarah, Danielle and myself wandered up to the 1st mirador which looked across to said glacier. It was wet! We only stayed long enough to take a few photos before the weather got the better of us and we walk back to the camp ground. It was on the way down we did get to see one of the ice falls and I soon realised why it sounded so loud, it was huge!

Back at the campground things took a turn for the best and the weather started to clear. The result of this was Sarah got an itch to go back up, I wasn't too bothered about retracing my footsteps. Sarah asked if it was OK if she went up again and if you know Sarah if she doesn't do something she regrets it. So, we agreed that she would go up (slowly) and I would walk with the others and sort out camp so everything was ready for her arrival. Max, Danielle and myself headed off and Sarah headed up.

The walk to the next camp was flat and along the banks of a large lake. Views where medioca and the only real spectacular thing to be seen was the effects of the wind. It was blowing up spray off the lake which in turn created amazing rainbows which seemed to travel at great speed down the lake. The other effects of the wind were to picking me up off my feet and plonking me in a large shrub. It was gusty and strong and I started to worry about Sarah as she would be carrying my pack as I had taken hers with the tent in it. My pack was bigger and would of sat higher on her back.

I was relieved to get to the campsite, here I set up the tent, which I found testing as the wind was blowing the thing around and the pitch was small. I got it in place chucked my pack in and went and told the others I was going to met Sarah and would be back later. I actually ran for 45 minutes before I found her happily strolling along. She did say she was pleased to see me and I offered to take the pack for a while and she was happy to rest her back from the poorly fitting rucksack. She told me that she had managed to get right up into the valley and had amazing views down and up, but the weather closed in quickly and hid the views. She had got some nice photos, one of which made the day look so nice.

Getting back to the campsite we reported back to the others and settled into our tent to warm up and have our dinner.

DAY 7

This morning was beautiful, the weather here changes so quickly. A long, but easy walk was ahead of us to day. Was all started off separately, but eventually ended the day together. The scenery was very dramatic and we also saw a large number of condor throughout the day. We finished the day at a free campsite only 45 minute walk from the Torres del Paine lookout. This was both good for seeing the sunset, but also for seeing the sunrise tomorrow.

Once we had pitch tent and organised ourselves a bit we wandered up to see the sunset. Danielle and Max joined us, the scenery was great and the company was fun. We spent far to much time fooling around taking funny photos of each other, but plus to this was we kept very warm. The sunset was pretty cool to.
Sliding into our sleeping bags afterwards was a welcome feeling too as the temperature was dropping quickly.

Day 8 

Alarm went off at 5.30am, supposedly giving us time to boil some water for the thermos, get our sleeping bags and thermarests packed up and then set off for sunrise on the Torres. Thankfully we had more than enough time as Gareth and I then had a 30minute debate as to whether the wind was too strong and whether the climb up would be too dangerous. Eventually with 15mins to get ready it was agreed that I would head up but turn back at the tree line if the wind was too bad, Gareth after packing up my gear returned to the comforts of a sleeping bag.

I found Danielle and Max by the light of my head torch and ascended the 40 to 50 minute path up to the towers with them. The wind through the trees actually sounded a lot worse than it really was, the going was slow but absolutely fine. There was something eerily beautiful about ascending a mountain in the dark with a series of torch lights above and below you. The sun was soon lighting up the sky to a beautiful pink down the valley. We had time to get to the Torres despite the imminent sun down the valley as we were actually waiting for a time past true sunrise when the sun first hits the Torres. We found our way to the Mirador and selected a good rocky vantage point. We timed it perfectly. Only a couple of minutes to wait, just enough time to pull on warm layers of clothing, a cup of coffee and then the beautiful red first light from the sun hit the towers. Lots and lots of photo taking. There were quite a few people up there but it certainly didn't feel crowded especially as we were all spread out on separate rocky outcrops. Eventually the sun on the Torres turned yellow and after a few more minutes of admiring the view I descended back to the campsite. It had been a shame that Gareth hadn't ascended to the view point with us , but we have seen many beautiful views together and I think he is truly getting 'landscaped out' at the moment.

Having packed the tent away and after a good bowlful of porridge we had a really pleasant sunny 3 hour descent down the valley to Hotel de Torres at the valley base. Downhill all the way!

We had a nice 1.5 hour wait in the sun with a lot of the other hikers we'd met on the trail and use of the luxurious hotel toilets (toilet seat, proper soap, hand driers), it did make us realise how much we stank though, 8 days on the trail with only 1 change of T-shirt, not that pleasant!

Then at 2pm we had the reverse of the transport into the park, a short shuttle minibus ride and then a 2 hour coach ride back to Puerto Natales. Back at the 'Singing Lamb' we then prioritised, shower, laundry and then meal out with no pasta or rice involved!